To get the handle out, the license plate & bracket have to come off, & then the interior handle TRIM COVER has to be removed. I’ll stress warming the plastics up with a heat gun if you have it, I used 500ish degrees an inch or 2 off the surface for prolly 45ish seconds while “fanning” the gun. Once the plastic is hopefully less brittle, you SHOULD be able to simply push up on the 2 tabs inside the square holes at the top of the handle & get a nice click when they disengage. We’re trying to pop them up far enough to get off the wedges circled in the photo below. If they don’t disengage by simply being pushed up, I use a plastic pry bar to GENTLY hold the handle down & push the tabs up. I’m told the trim piece w/o a release button hole is no longer sold, so be slow and gentle here, it took me a few years to find a replacement in Oak Arena for my T5.
There’s one Torx screw under the hatch light, simply lift the light at the access point & unplug it and then one screw holding the cover on by the handle. The interior handle itself doesn’t actually need removed to take the inside hatch cover off or replace the exterior handle. The circled holes are where the push clips for the cover mount, & with a lil bit of heat from the heat gun again, the cover popped right off with no damage to the cover or fasteners
To disconnect the exterior handle, we need to open up, & move the yellow clip down first, & then I used a smaller Allen key to push the barbell out of its place while I held the exterior handle in to create slack on the cable. It’s not the worst idea to hit the yellow clip with the heat gun to make it a bit more pliable, & you’ll also soften the clip holding the cable collar which needs spread to fully release the cable.
The wiper motor doesn’t need to be fully removed, I loosened the bolts of the motor a smidge & stuck a wrench behind it to get the 2 top nuts of the handle loose & then there are 2 more nuts inside the access holes on either side of the motor. If we look at the new handle, we’ll see the roughly 4 plastic tabs that will still be holding the handle in place once the nuts are removed. You can either pry them loose if you can get to them, or, if you’re replacing the handle & have the new one, you can be a bit rougher, but make sure you’ve disconnected the plug for the wire harness to the license plate bulbs before attempting to remove the handle assembly. The new handle installs exactly as we think it does, simply pop in place, nut the studs, connect the harness & yada yada while ensuring you put the license plate back on lol. Or, if you want to make a one hour job take many more, you can Dynamat the hatch because we all have that kind of time & aren’t avoiding doing any other projects 
😅.
(I used the painters tape so I knew where to apply pressure to seat the clips) Honestly, the hatch is composite, not metal, so we won’t necessarily get too large a benefit from the Dynamat, but it definitely feels a little cooler inside after only that slight amount & the rest of the vehicle will be getting done as I get to it, so the hatch got done while I was there. It does sound a lil more solid than before when closing if anyone needs an excuse to play with Dynamat.