Upgrading the windshield wiper system. | SwedeSpeed

Alright. I’ve got the wiper system in place and it should work. I’ve already tested the switch I bought and the motor and that’s all fine. After all the failed attempts and getting grease on my hands it came off the cable, so I want to reapply it, so it works as friction free as it can, before I fire it up.

Here is what you will need:

From carbuilder.com
The motor kit and bundy tube: You want the 110 degree kit. That dictates the arc of the wiper arms.

The pigtail connector to the motor:

Because the wiper mechanisms are a different shaft size, you’ll need to but new arms.

And the wiper blades

You will not need the suggested wiper switch and relay, if you are installing for a 2 speed plus washer in one switch, like I did. This switch will hook directly to the motor. In the US, I found the switch at Mouser.com and electronic component supply house.
75228-03
Littelfuse Rotary Switch

I made a number of mistakes and had to try again, when installing and routing the tubes and wiper “boxes”. They have a link to a how-to video on the carbuilder web site on the page for the kit. It is not as easy under the dash and the extra length of cable.

Here is how I would do it, now that I know stuff.

Install the wiper boxes and snug them down. Then cut, flare and install the tube between them. That will lock them in place so they don’t rotate and throw your measurements off. I would then open the motor and remove the cable. You have to manipulate a greasy cable and keep it off you door card and seats, so having the motor off the end will be helpful. It also will keep you from accidentally keep any kinks out of the cable. It’s a snug fit in the tubes and and bends you put in the cable will add friction. I had to straighten a slight one.

Here are some photos:
I had changed to an alternator, so the regulator is gone. The 2 bolts are for the motor bracket on the other side of the firewall. I got a stock Volvo pump and bracket and purchased a new reservoir.

Here is the toughest tube to make. I asked and found the smallest curve you should make is a 4″ radius. I thought I had to made in the steel and copper bundy tube, but when I then made the tube between the wipers and straightened them to make the tube align properly, the curved tube no longer fit. What you see here is nickle/copper fuel line that I made longer. The carbuilder guys doesn’t think that will last with the cable moving back in forth in it. So, I have to order another tube or the steel bundy.

Above is are the new wiper mechanisms and interconnecting tube.

Below is how short I cut the cable after I had it all in place. The length that came with the kit left enough cable to hang almost to the floor. If you get this all laid out before you grease the cable, you could mark it with a Sharpie pen and pull it all back out to cut it. I used a Dremel tool with a cutoff disk and made sparks under the dash.

Cover the cable that goes back and forth at the end.

Here is the wiper switch I got from Mouser.

Note the three washers stacked on the shaft. I thought it stuck too far when I installed it, so those kept it from sticking out so far,

The wiper is rotated clockwise for the two speeds and pushed in to engage the washer.