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(ABOUT SIREN MODULES) (1) I get my siren modules from a local junk yard. Easiest ones to get are those on wrecks involving the right front fender that has seperated or has been sold. Nonetheless, removal is not difficult, just knuckle scrapping. I.E. Easiest if the right front tire is removed. On the leading edge of the fender working back toward the passenger door, bore the rivets aware until you can forceably push part or all of fender boot away. With a wench (size forgotten) remove one nut and the bracket holding the siren releases. Unplug wires. (Note: If you take a small saw (for plastic) with you, you can cut the unit open to reveal the battery. ) It is not the battery corrosion that is the problem, it is when the corrosion has melted the wires or the circut board, The junk yard that I use, allows me to remove these items myself (because they don’t usually sell them) and after taking i home, if I find the unit is no good, the yard allows me to swap. One time, I took two . the yard owner let me have both for the onw price ($5). If I do not have new rivits, I replace the boot using zip ties. (2) I do not put a replaced siren module back under the fender boot. I add extensions to the swiring and run the wiring into the air filter box. That is where I put siren replacement. (3) As far as replacing the battery, I quit seeking batteries sold and fitting the siren module. Just look at the voltage and amps on the orginal, then, if you are not familar with stacking batteries, go to some place like Batteries Etc. and ask them to put a packabe togethen. (I.E) 6 “coin type” 1.2 volt each batteries stacked end to end create a 7.2 volt battery.
ABOUT THE DOOR MODULE:
(1) In a 2003 S60 the driver;s window ceased to operate from the switch. After discussion this with many people, I tried three different modules from similar cars. None worked. I asked a dealer if he would reprogram the car and one of the modules. He said that he would. Buy for the $310 cost, it did not work. As a work around. I attached a positive and negative wire directly to the car battery. Then, routed the wires into the door along side the existing wiring harness. I purchased (about $10) rocker swicth with a neutral center and connected to the window motor. (needless I just disconnected the orginal wires from the window motor.) The senior mechanic at the local volvo dealership. said that he had never seen it done. But, now I have a “working” driver’s window. You can do the same for each window and/or each locking device, (2) also, turning a volvo window from the electronic module to a manual lever is relatively simple. If I can get it posted, see my attachment on the alternate wiring and a manually operated volvo window.
CANNOT SEEM TO POST PICTURES-IF YOU WANT THE DIAGRAMS AND PICTURES YOU WILL HAVE TO SEND ME A MESSAGE WITH E-ADDRESS OR U.S. MAIL ADDRESS AND I WILL SEND A COPY.
Re: 2003 Volvo S60
Comment related to a master door switch that ceased to operate the functions within the driver’s car door; however, continued to operate the functions of the cars other three (3) doors.
Because the specific vehicle’s CEM also showed inconsistent error reporting, this work-around focused on the driver’s door switch which is required to operate the driver’s window in order to obtain a state of Maine auto inspection sticker.
1. Disconnect the vehicle’s battery.
2. If not significantly familiar with vehicle’s electric wiring, do not try to connect to another positive power wire within the vehicle. xx xxRun Positive Power wire (from battery) through the fire into the left front door.
After passing into the door, keep enough wire to easily reach the mid-point of the door.
3. Insert an “inline” fuse holder and fuse into this positive power line. Original fuse is 25 amp.
4. Unplug the “pig tail” plug connected to the driver’s window drive motor.
5. Note that two of the “pig tail” wires are heavier gauge wires (1-Colored Purple; 1-Colored Red with Black Strip). Without cutting into the xxwires, remove about 1/8″ (or less) covering from each wire. Consider seperating the stripping areas of these two wires by 1″ inch or xxmore.
6. Into the inner door panel, cut a hole for the new toggle switch.
7. Wrapping exposed electric wire connections, Wire the switch as follows:
6 Pole Momentary Toggle/Rocker Switch with auto return to center
Non-Optional 25 Amp Inline Fuse
Power Motor Pig-Tail
One heavier
Gauge Wire
Optional
Ground One heavier
Gauge Wire
If push on switch does not send window up or down in desired direction, reverse the wires connected at center poles.
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Manual window regulator Lever
1. Remove inner door panel. Remove motor.
2. Note that window regulator with motor is relatively easy to remove from door if one lowers window about 6 inches.
3. Undoubtably, one will need to replace the two “slides” used at base of glass. Ends of the regulator “wings” snap into these slides.
4. If attempting to work without completely removing regulator from the door, determine location of regulator center pin.
Put working hole in metal portion of inner door. 1″ plus in diameter.
5. Bore 5/16 inch (exact) hole in regulator center pin . Hole depth only through head of pin and first regulator wing. NOT completely through
total structure (or second wing)
6. Thread hole for a 3/8″ (EXACT) (same as 6/16″) bolt. Plan to use 3/8″ bolt at least 3″ long.
7. Use “lock-tight” or similar product in female bolt hold, add bolt with two nets and lock washer and two nuts to tighten in place. Cut head from bolt.
7. Cut hole into inner door panel to fit the protruding bolt.
8. Manipulate the inner door panel back in place with the bolt shaft sticking through panel at least 1/2″ (that many be trimmed shorter-later).
9. Plan and install the window opening lever. One-quarter rotation will open or close window from top to botton.
(Maybe this planning an fitting of lever or window crank should be tested before installation.)
In these pictures, the bolt shaft is perpendicular to the regulator (does not look
that way). The vice-grip pliers simulate the window handle or lever.