As for some of the confusing parts about the job, one of the first things that comes to mind is that the Victor Reinz 30750783 kit comes with the seals that attach to the ends of the oil cooler to filter pipe shown above. The yellow-orange seals in the kit don’t have the perfect, exact dimensions of the old seals but they work and that is their intended purpose (you will use two of four of those yellow-orange seals). The aforementioned kit does not come with oil cooler seals and two will need to be purchased separately (Victor Reinz 30637339). Another confusing part about the oil pan job was that the long 100mm bolts would not come close to reaching the 48nm torque specification without stretching. Two 100mm bolts stretched on me but I caught them before they snapped. I successfully backed out the bolts that began stretching on me, and I went to the junkyard and got some extra 100mm bolts to try again. This time around, I fastened the 100mm bolts to approximately 30nm (almost 20ft-lbs) and called it a day. All other bolts were fastened to approximately 20nm (15ft-lbs). I am experiencing no issues with leaking or seeping oil. Another thing worth mentioning is that one should clean each bolt hole on the block with a tap before reattaching the oil pan again. I’d also recommend running each bolt through a die to make sure everything will come together smoothly upon reassembly. Clean threads will ensure accurate torquing of each bolt during reassembly. Like everyone else has stated before, make sure the two loose O-rings don’t get moved during reassembly of the oil pan to the block. To make sure the O-rings stayed in place, I raised the oil pan in position and had someone hold it for me in mid-air while I slid to the side and made sure the O-rings were still in place. I used a little bit of the anaerobic sealant to keep the O-rings in their designated grooves during reassembly.
After completing this job, my ’05 S80 2.5T is running great and no longer has any bubbles on the engine oil dipstick.