I also straight away routed the controller cable for a DLS 10” active sub, and a rear view camera cable. They all went via the same route on the right side of the car behind and under the interior panels. Panels pop off / click back real easy.
I then upgraded all the front/rear door speakers for DLS Cruise units, 8ohm versions 2.18, 2.48 and 2.68 specific for the HP set (HK and BO require the 4ohm units). Front doors have the 1”, 4” and 6” units, rear doors only the 1” and 6”.
Effort: easy. Change: significant. If you only want to spend the least amount for the best effect: go and change out the front door units for these DLS units or maybe the PG speakers. Man what a difference. A punch to the beat. Off course I never heard these speakers without the PG ZDAPV1 amp but I can imagine the quality and punch improvement so much with just this speaker upgrade.
Together with the speaker upgrade I also installed door deadening and isolation in two layers through the whole inside of the doors. This required removal of the complete door panels, locking system and window. Effort: hard. Effect: significant. So much isolation and this backs up the punch of the 6” drivers.
After this, a week later, I installed the 12v connection and 10” active sub onto a deadened wooden board in the trunk spare wheel area. This is just ludicrous. The sound goes up undistorted so easily… with the bass kicks from the rear filling up the whole car.
Result: I think I damaged some of my hearing already. The whole DLS set with PG amp just sound so sweet and tender whilst you the impacts through the body. It’s loud but gentle and you just want it louder.
I’d go for the speaker and easy deadening / isolation first. Make sure you select the 4ohm or 8ohm sets as appropriate to your own car. After that, go for the PG and Sub in one go, your opening the interior anyway, might as well route the sub controller wire whilst your at it anyway.
All connections are easy and can’t be really made wrong. Only hooking up the sub was a re-do as this wasn’t explained clearly anywhere. It required the blue “remote wire” to be connected to one of the cables from the PG harness, along with the RCA connection to the 5/6 channels of the PG amp. This took me bit to figure out as it wasn’t described anywhere.
enjoy!