Obligatory before pics to start – I had folding P2 mirrors w/ satin silver caps.
After, w/ Anthracite KPAX covers and sequential/dynamic smoked turn indicators w/ BLIS cameras.
Comparison on passenger mirror size – P3 is a little bigger! Took me a minute to get used to but I love the larger area vs P2. The plastic bezel also falls away more sharply on the outside edge, which would be great if you got ECE style wide angle glass.
Inside view – classy!
First step was research – I bought a pair of P2 XC90 mirrors, to test pinout for BLIS.
I made the following diagram for P2 power folding/BLIS mirror pinout:
Also discovered that P2 and P3 mounting motors were the same with help from @jcdillin after taking this P2 XC90 mirror apart.
Next, I bought two P3 facelift power folding mirrors in addition to having my P2 power folding mirrors already. I bought the P2 lower BLIS caps, and I bought the P2 BLIS inner A pillar covers. A parts list is below if you want to do this. You would also need a BLIS button, I grabbed mine from the JY but I included that part number. Keep in mind, if all you want is the cosmetic upgrade of folding P3 mirrors, you can obviously leave off the BLIS parts, or if you only want BLIS you can ignore the other parts. I have specifically verified that S60 facelift mirror tops fit on P2 bottoms, but I think most will fit with most.
Only difference in wiring between P2 and the P3 mirrors I ended up buying was the fold motor line pins, for P2 the fold blue line taps into pin 7 along with a mirror motor lead for both sides, on P3 right/passenger side it taps into pin 15 w/ a mirror motor line and the grey fold motor line is same as p2 on pin 14. On P3 left/driver side the blue fold line goes to pin 14 by itself, and the grey fold line taps into pin 15 – for whatever reason they’re reversed.
PARTS LIST
- Search part numbers using my search script here for saving a few bucks – sorry Mac users, Windows only for now.
- If this helps you out, feel free to buy me a beer!
- This list is only comprehensive for P2 wagon/sedan variants. For XC90, here’s the parts diagram for folding BLIS mirrors. I may update if enough people are interested.
Folding/common parts:
- P3 power folding mirrors – pair, in style/color of your choice. (Facelift or non, with BLIS or without)
- P2 sedan/wagon mirror mount seals if yours are crusty (likely) – 30745084, 30745085
- P2 power/electrically folding mirror kit (2007 style with turn indicators) – 31217622 (seems like this is NLA – this list of parts supposedly has several kits available, not sure if they’re complete kits or if they include indicators. As long as they include folding bases you’ll be able to make it work.) – you’ll need this if you don’t already have folding mirrors on your P2 S/V/XC. It comes with a charcoal 7-button panel, mirror fold switch, and the folding mirror motors/frames/wiring. Earlier styles exist without turn indicators, but are similar pricing. If you buy the 2007 type, you can make another set of mirrors from your existing tops and P3 bottoms to sell after like I did!
- This is only necessary if you use the P3 harness like I did – save yourself some effort/soldering and keep your existing P2 harness and just swap the feature you want onto it, like the BLIS harness and/or the P3 facelift turn indicator connector. If you swap the whole P3 harness over, you’ll need one temp sensor from any P2/P3 mirror to add to the passenger/right side P3 mirror, since P3 only uses the driver/left side temp sensor for car and DIM, P2 uses one in each mirror, driver for car and passenger for DIM. I suggest pulling from a junkyard mirror, since you’ll need the whole line w/ pins and everything. Temp sensor + connector if you have extra pins/wiring and just need the temp sensor/connector: 30674546, 30682293
BLIS parts:
- P2 lower BLIS caps – 30745086, 30745087
- P2 BLIS A pillar covers – 30649921, 30649922 you can skip these and just use a regular LED if you want, or grab P3 covers and move the LED/connector to your P2 covers after drilling a hole, but that’ll look much less nice vs the OEM parts.
- BLIS button – 30710076 (Can find fairly easily in a junkyard on an XC90)
- BLIS cameras/wiring harnesses – I suggest junkyard or eBay p3 mirrors w/BLIS to source these, S80/S60/V70/XC70 should work. P1 also has BLIS hardware that is similar (S40/V50/C30) and those mirrors are often cheap, but I haven’t tested them for compatibility in fold motors or BLIS cams. Presumably they’re compatible, why would Volvo make more stuff than necessary? DO NOT try to get XC90 BLIS parts (unless you have an XC90) they are tuned for a larger/taller car and don’t activate reliably per testing by @jcdillin on his car.
- If the mirrors you snag don’t have the BLIS reflective rings (or they’re in bad shape) those are 30716060 for both sides.
- If the heaters are in bad shape or the old circular opening style, 31385994, 31385995
BLIS DELAY CIRCUIT* parts:
- Necessary: a programmable delay timer like this.
- Optional: a mini blade fuse tap like this (this is the only one I could find in existence).
- Optional: an inline mini blade fuse holder like this.
SOFTWARE:
- This part requires a CEM edit to enable BLIS/power folding/puddle lights. Folding mirror software can be done by a dealer, not sure about puddle lights but I think no (some 2007 cars came without puddle lights enabled in the CEM, and most came without puddle lights installed), and BLIS definitely no.
- Can be done with something like VDASH if you have your CEM pin.
I disassembled both the donor mirror and my original, using the method I did in this video –
Exploded mirror parts:
I reassembled using the method I did in this video, using my P2 bottoms and the P3 tops –
and used all these blue boxes…
I ran the system by pulling and inserting the fuse 7sec after ignition for a while, but that got annoying. Here’s how I built a delay circuit without cutting any factory wiring! (You CAN just use the timer linked above and wire it into the factory green/white BLIS wire, but that can’t be removed easily. One of my goals was the ability to quickly return the car to factory for any reason.)
I started by creating the delay circuit – here’s the diagram:
Pictures of the finished product:
…and w/ the ground connector added
This includes a 5a mini blade fuse wired inline before the timer, in the line (hot) wire (top of position 30) which goes to the red wire on the timer (you need to have programmed the timer first with a power supply like a 9v battery – how-to is on their website) then the yellow wire from the timer goes to the load side (bottom of CEM position 30, I painted this wire black on the end to tell the polarity apart). I wrapped the whole thing with Tesa tape, and tucked it up above the driver’s kick panel. Both line and load CEM ends go to the mini blade fuse tap adapter I bought. The black timer wire goes to ground, I did the same as @jcdillin and used the factory ground block under the plastic piece on the door sill by the hood latch. The white, blue, and green wires I individually heat shrunk and then put a larger heat shrink piece over them to isolate them and prevent any electrical contact.
I used a bit of extra black wire from a mirror ground, and a u-shaped spade connector to cinch down under the factory ground bolt. You can see it staged by the top bolt here…
…and ultimately under the bottom bolt here, that routed better on my car.
The very bottom right (position 30) of the CEM is where this plugs in – line (hot) is on the top, load (to the BLIS cams) is on the bottom. I twisted the spade fingers of the mini blade connector slightly so it fit more snugly in the CEM slot, wouldn’t want vibration to let it out over time. Your CEM slot will presumably be snugger since you didn’t insert and remove a fuse 40 times. I do not know if this would change for RHD cars, possibly reversed? Let me know!
After I was finished, I made some P3 pre-facelift mirrors out of the old p3 bases and p2 uppers! Let me know if you want them, or a set of custom mirrors made just for you. I would settle for parts cost and beer money, or just send me parts + beer money.
NOTES:
- The BLIS retrofit instructions apply to ALL P2’s ’05 and up (presumably P3’s as well before the radar gen 2 BLIS facelift, that system can also be retrofitted to P3, but is a different procedure entirely. Not sure if P1 has an option in CEM for cars that did not ship with BLIS but it is plausible.)
- You MAY have to do additional wiring work on ’05 and ’06 as the green/white wire from fuse position 30 in the CEM is possibly not run to pin 5 in the door harnesses, whereas on ’07+ cars it’s present. The wires in the door harnesses may or may not be pre-wired in your car. @jcdillin‘s ’06 V70R was pre-wired, but do not expect this for sure.
- I have only validated fitment for POWER FOLDING mirrors, I make no claim to compatibility for non-power folding mirrors.
- For retrofitting BLIS, you’ll need to add the BLIS harness from your donor mirrors to your existing harness, or do what I did and swap the whole harness (don’t, it was too much work). Adding BLIS harness is easier, just snip off donor harness from ground lines and re-attach to your existing ground lines.
- If you’re retrofitting facelift P3 mirrors, the turn indicator connector is different. Could swap the whole harness like I did (much harder – don’t do this), or just snip the connector and solder onto your existing harness for an easier job.
- * BLIS needs a ~7sec time delay (per testing by @jcdillin confirmed in my testing) using p3 camera modules at least, original p2 modules are available but for over $300/side… wallet does not want that. Before ignition, 5a fuse can manually be removed from CEM position 30 (above driver’s footwell cover) and inserted 7sec after ignition, but that gets annoying quickly. Better method: you can build a 7sec delay circuit into the green/white wire, or use a fuse connector and inline 5a fuse (what I did) parts and instructions above. UPDATE: @hnilsson001 confirmed original p2 wagon/sedan cameras don’t need a delay circuit! If only they are plentiful in the US.
- @jcdillin suggested putting a touch of oil on the BLIS camera mount screws, they self-tap perfectly after that into the bosses on the mirror frame.
- De-pinning connectors is easy, just need to pop the plastic retainers up and use an un-folded paper clip to release the pins. I taped my pins to easily keep track of the order. You probably don’t need to do as much of this as I did, probably just the BLIS harness connector to thread it through the grommets.
- I like using solder/heat shrink connectors like these for the couple of edits I had to make to the harness, they work awesome. Watertight, flexible and a great connection.
- This step is only necessary if you swap the whole P3 harness – just re-use your P2 one and add the features you want. If you’re dumb like me and do the whole P3 harness, read the rest of this note. I added a temp sensor to the passenger P3 mirror so as to get temp in the DIM – it has a factory place for the temp sensor in the mirror, just doesn’t protrude below the mirror so on super hot days it’ll read a bit higher than normal, but when air starts flowing will return to correct temp. The stock temp sensor location does this too. This goes in the same pins on the connector in P3 and P2. Pretty sure temp sensors are the same type for both, so doesn’t matter which gen you pull spare sensor from. P3 does use thinner wires though, so that’s nice for routing.
UPDATE! BLIS working! 7sec delay circuit works great. See above for details.
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