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ME7 P80 XC AWD M66W Swap | SwedeSpeed

ME7 P80 XC AWD M66W Swap | SwedeSpeed

Posted on January 28, 2025 By rehan.rafique No Comments on ME7 P80 XC AWD M66W Swap | SwedeSpeed

This is fun. I just completed my car’s manual swap last fall. I’ve been meaning to make a write up, but you know how it is. I said completed, but really it’s never quite complete and so I haven’t taken pictures of it all done. I referred to a lot of lookforjoe’s information, but I did things a little contrary to the most common way it seems everyone has done it. Long story short, my donor cars were not the ideal ones, but it meant I had to do some fab work. If I was doing it again, I’d consider this clutch kit: valeo DMF elimination kit. But I can’t find information on what that disc can hold. If I could just buy the flywheel from Valeo, that’s the route I’d go with an early P2R sprung hub disc like scottishbrick said. None of which I could find, so I had California clutch make a custom disc with a 1″ 23 spline sprung hub. I found some RX7 clutch discs too, but they were all kevlar and not what I wanted.

Robert Hilton did the reprogram and it was painless. The plan it to have a custom tune made for the car since I built the engine a bit, but that has taken the back burner.

My donor cars were a 1993 850 and a 2004 S60R, so I adapted the clutch pedal to fit and custom fit the shifter into the car. I don’t know what you are up against with the lockout setup from the P1 donor, but the S60R has a computer controlled solenoid that blocks you out of the reverse throw. The solenoid has a logic circuit in it and if I remember correctly it needs to have +12V on purple wire to stay locked, but needs to be actively pulled down to 0V to unlock reverse. I had it wired up differently and discovered that it was working backwards from how I thought, so the get the right inputs I had to build a small pull up circuit. I made a new bezel for my shifter that has a button installed so I hit that button with my thumb to unlock reverse. It works like a charm and doesn’t require any computers to make it work. Remember, this only applies to the P2 shifter setup.

As far as the trans mount, I went with the P2 mount. I think it’s better. I had to make a base to attach to the subframe so it took some fab work. The lookforjoe mount is nice because you can buy one and not have to engineer one and I don’t think there is a huge advantage to using a P2 mount. It crowds the turbo and heater core lines more doing it that way.

You’ll want to get the clutch pedal sensor installed. I bought an early slave that lacked the ball mount for the sensor on the rod, but it has it on the housing. So I fabbed up a bracket with a ball on it. The wire for the clutch I ran all the way back the the computer new. I considered using the wire that runs from the transmission to the button on the shifter, but it was really small. Since the clutch sensor is a potentiometer I did want to introduce extra resistance by using a thinner wire. It probably would have worked. I tapped the brake sensor wire ground under the hood in the main fuse box sine according to the diagrams it’s a computer dedicated ground that does not ground to the body for the clutch sensor. But it ground on the same pin as the brake position sensor on the booster. That was easier than running another wire back to the ECU’s. I think that ground was brown.

I cleaned the wiring out that pertained to the transmission. The interlock for the starter is purely mechanical in the gear selector switch on the transmission. It a fat green wire to the switch I think and a fat green with a red stripe come back to the starter. I snipped it and ran the green straight to the starter like a factory car. You’ll have to double check me on those colors.

Just for anyone who is reading and looking for answers: P80’s with external slaves, came with a single mass flywheel. All 850’s and only some 1998 x70’s had the single mass. After that, they are all internal slave dual mass flywheels.

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