The usual caveats apply here. This is what I did to my cars. I’ve had no issues with axles and such. I’ve had many lowered Volvos, and the axle angles I’m seeing now aren’t much different than those lowered cars, just the other direction.
Also note, I never measured stock height on any of my cars and both times I lifted them, I was lifting from a lowered starting point. So I’m not 100% sure how far from stock these options will lift your car.
Option 1:
-Front strut top spacers and rear spring lower spacers
This “should” get you something close to 1.5″ lift and uses 100% stock suspension components so the ride will be similar to stock. Get a little extra ground clearance and give you the ability to put slightly bigger tires on.
All this requires is removing your top strut bearing, popping out the press in studs and using longer hardware to bolt in the bearing plate. You don’t even need to take the front spring off the strut. In the back you just place the spacer below the lower spring isolator. (I don’t have any vehicle pics with just this installed)
Option 2:
-The next step is the same front strut spacers and rear spring spacers
-Coilover sleeves (speedway motors 91046236-QA1)
-Modified iPd upper spring mounts (124672)
-Thick strut washers (Tacoma Screw 070-607-1)
-Eibach coilover springs (1000.250.275 the last three digits is the spring rate. This is what I run to get a soft-ish OEM feel)
-Rear upper spring spacer
With this lift I relocated the rear shock mount to the top of the control arm. This lift is a bit more difficult cause it requires cutting the spring seat off the strut and creating a flat spot for the coilover spring in the front upper spring seat. I used my CNC on the first set, but a burr bit in my die grinder on the second set. I’ve made a few of these coilover conversions and there is some inconsistencies in the Speedway coilover sleeves. Some just drop on, and some require sanding inside the tubes to get them to fit. I don’t really know what the issue is.
With this list of stuff installed I was able to run a 215/60/16 Yokohama Geolander (26.15″) with zero rubbing. This should get around 2.5″-3″
Option 3:
-Entire same front suspension setup except…
-Eibach coilover springs (taller 1200.250.275)
-Eibach 3″ coilover spring (1400.300.0300)
-3/4″ spacer for the bottom of the rear shock (relocated to the top of the control arm)
I am still running Nivomats in the rear, and this spring rate “might” be a little high, but I plan on adding some weight to the rear and won’t dial in the spring rate until I’m done with that. I’m considering this the max with the stock control arm setup. I’m just getting into positive camber (I haven’t slotted any mounting holes) and it took some effort to get the rear suspension re-assembled. With this setup I’m running Falken Wildpeak Trail A/T 215/60/17 (27.15″ OD). There is some rubbing I’m still working through, but as of now I haven’t cut any sheet metal. This is what I’m currently running on my daily. Honestly, I’m very happy with it and I can’t wait for snow! My estimate is it’s around 3″-4″ lifted (it’s a LOT lifted from the lowered starting point).
Obviously, this all works on both XC and R chassis, so I’m assuming AWD non-XC V70s would be similar, but I have no idea on 850s.
Hope this answers some questions.
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