The car is a 2010 S40 2.4i FWD.
The pump on this car was replaced previously so it had just a worm drive clamp.
Do your proper diagnosis first by pressure testing the system.
If you have a Vida/Dice setup then run the evap test.
I don’t so I cut the plastic line behind the RR wheel liner. Just below the clip. Hacksaw will do it. Inject your pressure there.
This is the only way to do it without Vida since there is no way to command the LDP to close it’s valve.
Don’t exceed 1 PSI. The car’s system test is around .25 PSI. Splice the line back with a piece of tight fitting silicone tubing.
It’s just vapor so it’s fine. BTW, you can check out the vent filter while you’re in there. It can get caked up with crud.
Parts:
Worm drive clamp.
Leak Detection Pump. Volvo 30760863 (bosch 0261222022) (Get the once for your specific car)
Rock Auto was the first supplier to deliver a non damaged pump. ~$84 out the door.
A 1.5-2″ piece of silicone. I think it was 1/2″.
Only basic tools are needed:
Flashlight.
T20 torx bit
10mm socket or wrench.
Tool to cut off the original clamp if needed.
Hacksaw to cut the plastic line.
Large screwdriver used for prying the bracket.
Something to cut the clamp off with. Mine was a worm drive so not for me.
Misc stuff as needed.
Jack up the right rear of the car and support on a stand.
Enough to get the wheel off is all you need as under car work is minimal.
Remove RR wheel and the plastic wheel liner. 10mm for the 2 plastic nuts. T20 for the screws.
Cut the plastic line with a hacksaw below the clip located near the vent filter – leave enough space below the clip for splicing.
Follow the plastic line under the car, there is a clip located up in there. Release it from the clip. Just pulling should do it.
Put a towel over the top of the trailing arm – just do it.
Remove the 3 screws holding the bracket to the pump. T20 (Since my pump was changed before maybe mine was easier to access, IDK.)
Bend the pump bracket towards you and down as far as possible. I used a large screwdriver.
Remove the electrical plug on the back of the pump. It’s only locked on one side. Pry the lock tab up and push it off.
Remove the forward hose (the one with the clamp). Mine was easy since it had a worm drive clamp on it already.
If it had the original clamp I might have just cut the hose next to the clamp if I couldn’t cut the clamp off.
Maneuver the pump out the hole. Using the plastic pipe to push helps with this.
Remove the plastic line connector. It’s a squeeze type.
My hand strength isn’t what it used to be so I used large channel locks.
Squeeze it and pull it off.
Remove pump from the car.
Take the 3 screws and pre-thread the 3 holes on the new pump – just like you would the PCV housing.
Connect the 3 connections to the new pump. I put dielectric grease on the small fitting of the pump to make it easier to get the hose on.
Bend the bracket back up.
It doesn’t have to be perfect but good enough to get the 3 screws into the pump and preferably the pump is isolated from anything else.
Under the car, push the plastic line back into the clip.
I pressure tested the system again at this point.
Splice back the cut plastic line with a piece of silicone tubing.
Replace the wheel liner.
Replace the wheel.
Lower the car.
Clear the codes and hope this is it….
Have fun 
