I suppose I have somewhat hijacked this thread… anyways.
I replaced the “vacuum booster ejector” and can 100% tell a difference in response and drivability. I can’t tell if it has any effects on horsepower but it was a noticeable return to how the car used to feel when it was younger. Idled smoother, responded faster, just felt.. better. Can’t complain for $20.
That said, the replacement is mostly “plug and play” because Volvo glues two of the tubes onto the existing valve. (A and B on Image 1) Tube C is more-rubbery and easily removed. This means that it is somewhat of a PITA.
If you buy “058133753D” it REALLY is a PITA due to the barbs being much larger. I ultimately had to file down the front Barbs OD and then heat up Tube A with a heat gun to get it to fit. This is unnecessary, but it worked for me. – Just buy the smaller barb sized from FCP lol.
I would think that buying “Volvo Booster Vacuum Ejector – Kayser OEM 30665561” would be much easier.
Anyways, onto replacement if anyone decides to do this.
1. Disconnect the tubing from the intake manifold via the push fitting.
2. Disconnect the rubber 90 at the rear of the tubing, you will have to cut a single use hose clamp. Replace with hose clamp again later.
3. Disconnect the upper angled tube from the upper intake pipe. There is a push fitting on the back of the upper intake pipe near the firewall.
4. Once you have your old “valve” it should have the short tube (“A”) which pushed into the intake manifold and the longer tube (“B”) that runs and connects to the upper intake pipe.
5. To remove these from the valve I ended up pouring boiling water on the connections and then twisting with a pair of large flat pliers. It will be a PITA and you will scar the rubber some but it should pull off.
6. To remove the top angled-barb tube I had to do this as well as wedge a screw driver under the base of the tube and twist a little bit.
7. Once the tubes are removed place the tubes onto the new valve, secure with hose clamps, place back into car as it was before, enjoy.
Testing if you need to do this: As far as ability to test if your existing “valve” is still good, my best guess is that if you can suck air from the back of the “valve”, it is bad. My original which was replaced essentially had no check valve function so who knows what the brake booster system did will receiving boost/air pressure. The new valve would not allow air to move backwards through the primary rear port, as it should be.
Link to patent for this type of valve if curious how it works and Links in above post have additional information.
Note: In this image it is obvious that I had to stretch tube “A” to get it to fit. The part #30665561 looks like it should not have this issue.
Also, Bottom = new. Top = old.
