When sitting still with no air moving over the radiator, temperatures should oscillate between the temperature that the cooling fans turn on (usually a few degrees above the thermostat set point) and the temperature at which the cooling fans turn off (usually very close to, but above, the thermostat set point). Depending on the specific conditions, I would expect to see coolant temps slowly oscillate between about 92C and 96C (~197-205 degrees Fahrenheit) when sitting still.
On a liquid cooled car, coolant temperatures will become concerning long before oil temperatures do since the thermostat keeps the engine in a narrow temperature range and you don’t get the same heat soak of the oil that you’d see on an air-cooled engine. Realistically, oil pressure is more important than oil temperature on a water-cooled engine. At hot idle, I’d want to see at least 1 bar (14.5 PSI) of oil pressure for most engines, rising to around 3.0 to 4.5 bar (~45 to 65 PSI) at higher RPM.
All of that said, people often get much too concerned about “the right” temperature. All cars will vary slightly and temperatures will vary over the course of a drive. Modern temperature “gauges” are basically simple “idiot lights” in gauge form – they are programmed to sit in the middle of the gauge zone unless there are big changes to the temperature or pressure. Manufacturers do this because small variations are normal and don’t matter, but people were getting paranoid about them anyway. So they changed the way the gauges behaved to stop people from coming in with “problems” that weren’t actually problems. So now a modern temperature “gauge” will sit in the middle of “normal” without moving at all for perhaps any temperature between about 85C to 100C and a modern oil pressure “gauge” will pop up to the middle of “normal” for perhaps any pressure between 1.5 bar and 4.5 bar and not moving unless the pressure got outside of that zone.