With age and miles, usually, the work is replacing anything that’s oil-based like fluids, rubber, and plastic. Here is some info to get you started.
Good Luck!!
Cooling System Parts
Here is a pic and link to the coolant parts. You can also search online for Volvo Parts. I usually get the part number and purchase from FCP because with their free shipping and no hassle, sometimes it’s cheaper and easier to deal with them. Also, since I did my first serpentine and cooling system work with FCP, their lifetime warranty meant I saved money the 2nd time doing the serpentine and cooling system. I was credited the cost of the old parts returned and will do this again for the 3rd time when I need it.
You want to get:
Hoses: #40 (get extra screws 2x #19 as they rust), #38, #39, #12 small hose + #26 o-ring (+ #20 screw), then the upper & lower radiator hoses
Other parts: I added a couple of hose clamps because some of them can rust. Some hoses come with the clamps and online pics should show them.
Access
As far as the work, I did mine with the intake manifold off and while doing the serpentine work. Everything was off for me. I can give some tips and hope it helps.
If you remove the intake manifold, get new gaskets. With the manifold removed, wipe clean the throttle body with some brake clean or carb cleaner, avoiding dripping into the electronics. There are YouTube videos and threads about removing the intake manifold. With manifold removed, you can unbolt the alternator and check the decoupler on it.
What can help is if you remove the cooling fan. ❕ I usually cover the hot side connections of electric fans with a nitrile glove or tape because it uses a lot of power. You will want to initially run the engine to test, inspect, and bleed the cooling system, so be aware of the fan connector.
Hoses
Lower plastic crossover pipe
Getting access to the screws holding the lower plastic crossover pipe (#40) is difficult from below because you are going blind. That is the most difficult part and if you buy 2x new screws, it will help to get the right socket size and helps in case you drop an old one somewhere. I was able to go from up top with the intake manifold removed. IIRC, the screws go into a loose threaded insert thus it initially can get difficult to align and start threading the new screw.
Separating the hoses from the o-rings with hoses #38-#40-#39 and even #39 to lower the radiator hose can get difficult. It sticks. You can remove it all at once or cut the hoses.
Plastic coupling to metal crossover pipe
Take a pic of hose #39 to where it connects to the metal crossover pipe (#41, crosses over from A/C to exhaust side). Take a pic as #39 routes behind some wiring. There is a #39 coupling that snaps into place on the metal pipe. This can also be difficult to remove, so rotate a little to loosen the o-ring and coolant/corrosion build-up. It has a tab so you can’t rotate it much. I might have used a pry bar to help pull it apart too. ❕ Don’t pry or bend the metal crossover pipe. Have some fine scotchbrite or fine sandpaper ready to clean the metal crossover pipe end of corrosion.
When installing, look at #41 pics online for how the tab works in the plastic #39 coupling onto the metal pipe. It has to click and can take a bit of force. I used a tiny bit of silicone spray lube (sprayed onto my finger then wiped onto the o-ring) to help slide the coupling/o-ring on and then had a small seep during shake down tests. I simply rotated the coupling left and right and the o-ring seated well after that.I wasn’t able to spot this seep with the engine running or just after turning off. I used a pressure tester and then I heard the coolant/air come out, locating the seep.
Here is one thread that talks about the small oil cooler hose and a pic of the lower plastic crossover pipe.
Additional Hoses (add: link to parts listed below)
- You want to get the upper and lower hoses. The lower might come with its own clamp. (I believe you said you already did the upper hose.)
- You also want to get hose #25 as its plastic connector above the intake manifold can crack with high mileage
- It’s a good idea to replace the reservoir as the plastic hose nipples can crack off with high mileage too. Can’t easily fix these on the road like typical hairline cracks. Get a new reservoir when you order the cap.