I am new here.. I was hoping that some of you would be kind enough to share your wisdom, gut feeling and put me out of my misery. To give a full picture of the significant events in a chronological order to the faults popped up i managed to write quite a bedtime reading. We would be super grateful if you could give us some pointers.
I recently bought a 2010 xc 90 D5 awd (275) 183HP manual six speed for my wife.
It had some minor looking issues to begin with like
- rear brake light message however the bulbs were fine,
- rear view mirror high potentiometer but it still worked,
- cabin temperature sensor no signal
and from the big boys league:
- leaking oil at the camshaft seal,
- swirl flap actuator rod kept detaching
- some deep mechanical clanking noise when started from cold but it was gone in a few minutes.
Upon buying I changed the
- timing belt
- tensioner
- water pump
- fuel filter
- brake pads
- complete caliper rebuild
- brake shoes
- brake disks
- antifreeze
- power steering pump
- gearbox fluid,
- rear diff fluid no filter
- engine oil+filter,
- aux belt
The some new issues started to come up in the following order:
- A few months ago the “change rear brake light” started coming up. I hit the side of the rear left lamp and it worked again. Still, I changed it, it was fine for a short drive and again it came back on the same drive. However the light was on.
I suspected it should be the brake pedal switch but I left it. - A few weeks ago the “anti-skid system service needed” message came up along with the “stop safely”. My wife stopped and then the car didn’t want to crank at all. A few mins later it stated again, anti skid issue was gone. And this happened once or twice more.
- She said occasionally the clutch started slipping in 4,5,6th gear whilst driving, not even touching the clutch. Hmm, i thought a lovely crankshaft seal leak.. but there was no oil visible around the gearbox peep hole.
- Then my wife was reversing uphill in a bumpy field with a loaded hose trailer and she mentioned “i really had to boot it”. So the clutch started slipping more and more. Also the gearstick somehow lost its original position for only the 5the and 6th gears. The were a bit back from where they used to be.
- Then next day all the electronics inside the cabin stopped working (apart from cabin light, horn, radio, flash, wiper, hazard), the car had the “battery saving mode” message. After a few tries with the key it started again. She thought the battery is flat so she drove around at high rpm for a bit and then the electronics worked again.
- A few days later the same issue came up, with the twist: cabin light stayed on, rear lights stayed on even when they were switched off on the dash. I was away so my wife couldn’t do much, she left the car as it was, battery went flat. She jumpstarted it, drove it around next day but none of the electronics came back. Then we noticed that this electronic issue happened both times after we had some really heavy rain…which might or mightn’t have anything to do with it.
So, I just changed
- the dmf,
- the clutch
- the slave cylinder
- bevel gear oil BUT no sleeve collar due to time pressure. It still seem to engage but worn.
- cleaned egr mixer and cooler and intake elbow which had massive amount of gunk in it.
- charged the battery which had 12.6V in it after.
Wanted to test drive it and i let the car warm up while packed away. There was no clunky noise anymore with the new dmf and it was running much nicer. So in about 20minutes the car just stalled and i could not crank it. The battery went 11.5V. Swapped the battery, then it started. So i took for a test drive hooked on my vida.
- alternator charge 0A constantly
- SAS 0degrees constantly
- cabin temperature sensor -236degrees celsius
- abs sensors show identical speed on each wheel
- DEM is grayed out
- CEM BCM DDM are red in vida
At least the clutch is fine.
I took a voltage measurement on the alternator casing and it showed 11.62V at idle, at 1500 rpm 11.92V so i take my alternator is at fault. =)
A new one and a braker one are on order i fit the one that comes first as my wife is super desperate for the car..
Also in vida i have the following error codes:
BCM-0094 Communication between control units Communication problems with DEM
BCM-0100 Communication between control units Communicational problems with ECM
BCM-0115 Communication between control units Communicational problems with SAS, signal missing
BCM-0148 Communication between control units Wrong configuration ID
CCM-0040 Air quality sensor Internal fault
CEM-1A05 X-Power supply Signal too high
CEM-1A09 50-power supply Signal too high
DDM-0030 Rear view mirror potentiometer Faulty signal
DDM-0032 Rear view mirror potentiometer Faulty signal
ECM-500F Air condition – Faulty signal
ECM-6110 Engine cooling fan (FC) – Temperature too high
ECM-7600 Immobilizer – Signal missing
CEM-8F1D 15-feed or beam level control Shorted to supply
CEM-1A06 15-power supply Signal too low
ECM-4480 EGR position sensor – Faulty signal
ECM-6100 Engine cooling fan (FC) – Signal too low
ECM-6662 Glow relay control – Faulty signal
ECM-6664 Glow relay control – Faulty signal
ECM-683D Turbo control actuator – Signal missing
ECM-7700 Engine control module (ECM) – Incorrect check sum
PDM-E010 Control module Internal fault
SAS-0016 Control module Communication fault
SAS-0018 Control module Signal missing
I suspect the alternator is the main issue, the clock spring and potentially the brake pedal switch. I ordered these to be on the safe side.
Contemplating about the ignition switch too and tried to have a look at the CEM which seemed dry as much as i could assess it in situ (bottom half of the casing basically).
I never done volvos before and have no type knowledge at all just reading the forums.
Is there something that shouts clear at you but i don’t see yet?
I guess i need a PCV kit too very soon.
Anyhow, thank you for reading it.