Disclaimer: I am not a professional auto mechanic, so I may not know all the proper terms for the parts I’m about to describe, but I’ll do my best. 
Notables you’ll need:
Floor jack and a pair of jackstands
10mm, 12mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm wrenches & sockets
5mm allen wrench for rear end links
You may want an impact wrench, but you probably won’t be able to fit it in a lot of places, so don’t worry if you don’t have one.
Homemade press/pull kit consisting of: 7/16″ threaded rod (1 foot should be adequate), 2 nuts and a few fender washers to match the rod, and a pusher (I used a cut off piece of pipe nearly the same diameter as the bushing) and receiver (I used a cut off piece of square stock with an internal space slightly larger than the bushing). I also used some scrap “u” stock of metal to brace the pusher and receiver. Pic of this setup:
1. Jack the rear end as high as you safely can and support it with jackstands. Remove the rear wheels. Lay down a blanket or pad under the rear end – you’ll be there for a while.
2. Remove the two 10mm bolts on this switch arm on the front side of the rear suspension:
3. Remove this brake line bracket at the front of the rear wheel well with a 12mm wrench:
4. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack, and remove the arm connecting the rear hub to the frame forward, near where you just removed the bracket. I think this is call a drag link or something. They are 17mm bolts.
5. Remove the rear trailing arm, but take note of the inboard bolt position. This sets your rear toe.
6. Remove the rear sway bar from the end links (19mm wrench and 5mm allen wrench) and the bushings above the rear diff (18mm nuts). You don’t have to completely pull this out from under the car, but you’ll want to be able to move it around to keep it out of your way.
7. Support the lower control arm with the floor jack, and separate the lower control arm from the hub with the 17mm bolt.
8. Remove the upper bolt for the frame link at the inner part of the lower control arm (18mm nut and 17mm bolt I think), then separate the lower control arm inner attachment point by removing the long bolt (17mm I think).
Now you might want to temporarily reattach the lower control arm to the hub, so you can jack that assembly up and away from the bushing you are replacing.
9. Using the homemade press kit, press the old bushing from front to rear and drive it out the back of the housing.
10. Then press the new bushing in, again from front to rear. Notice that it will stick out approximately 1/8″ to 1/4″ on each side of the housing. Also note that IPD recommends the end of the bushing with the “deep groove” should face forward.
Now put everything back together in reverse order (long bolt through the new bushing first). Now you need to get re-aligned pronto!