Full LED conversion thread (S60/V70) | SwedeSpeed

Full Volvo P2 S60 and V70 (2000-2009) LED conversion thread

Have a P1 (S40/V50 2004.5+, C30, V70N)? Check out my P1 S40/V50 LED conversion thread!

The following interior and exterior bulbs can be changed without modifying the car or tripping any warning lights/messages. All part numbers correspond to products sold by superbrightleds.com, who I highly recommend – though they might be a little more expensive, after ordering hundreds of bulbs from them I’ve never gotten a bad one. There is an interior kit available from Eurosport Tuning here, I can’t vouch for the quality/brightness/consistency of their bulbs.

On to the list! Format is:
#x type (year) [superbrightleds.com part number] notes

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Interior
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Front Overhead Lights (aka “Map Lights” or “Reading Lights”)
4x 42mm festoon (all) [4210-xHP3 (3 LED) or 4210-xHP6 (6 LED)] *1*

Rear Overhead Lights
2x 42mm festoon (all) [4210-xHP3 (3 LED) or 4210-xHP6] reference

Glovebox
1x ba9s 2w (all) [BA9s-xHP9 (8 LED)] *2*

Front Foot Well Lights
2x 37mm festoon (all) [3710-xWHP3 (3 LED)]

Trunk Light
2x 37mm festoon (all) [3710-xHP3 or 4210-xHP3 (3 LED)? ]*3*

Vanity Mirror Lights (aka “Sun Visor” lights)
4x 6x31mm festoon-SV5.5 (all) [F30-WHP-12V]

*1* Note: 42mm festoon is AKA 6411. Do NOT order “578 LED CAN Bus Bulb” as the heatsink will short out the festoon contacts.
*2* Note: ba9s is AKA 17053
*3* Note: may require bending the tabs a little for proper fit. 37mm is per reference

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Exterior
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License plate
2x 194 (all) [WLED-xHP (1 LED) or WLED-xHP5 (5 LED) or WLED-xHP9-T (9 LED)] reference1 reference2

Running lights – headlamp (AKA “Front Side Markers”)
2x 194 AMBER (all) [WLED-xHP (1 LED) or WLED-xHP5 (5 LED) ]

Mirror turn signals
2x 194 AMBER (all) [WLED-xHP5 (5 LED)]

Puddle Lights
2x 194 WHITE (all) [WLED-xHP9-T (9 LED)] reference

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Bulb Guide
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NOTE: Most products from superbrightleds.com can be either “cool” or “warm”, you probably want “cool”. Warm looks more like the incandescent bulbs we are trying to replace.

NOTE: All bulbs listed above can be changed without triggering warning lights and do not require modification to the vehicle. Lights not recommended for LED conversion include:

Brake lights – These will trigger “bulb failure” warning if used without a resistor (and harness modification). IMO they generally look bad because high-power LEDs don’t fill the reflector properly, and large clusters of “standard” LEDs produce so little light they are a safety hazard. True brake light conversion requires modification of the taillight housing, see juve021‘s thread for the right way to do it.
Running lights – Also trigger “bulb failure” warning if used without a resistor (and harness modification). Same reflector issues as brake lights.
Turn signals – Will trigger fast flashing (to indicate burnt out bulb) and bulb failure warning if used without a resistor (and harness modification). Turn signal functionality is built into the CEM (central electronic module) which communicates over a computer bus to the turn signal stalk switch so there is no way to add an “electronic flasher” to overcome this problem. Similar reflector issues to the brake lights, turn signals also look bad with LEDs.
Reverse lights – I have not seen a drop-in LED bulb that is capable of producing more light than an upgraded halogen bulb reverse bulb which output around 600 lumen each. LEDs this powerful do exist and are available with matched reflectors in high powered LED flashlights but that would be $100+ per bulb and still require modification of the housing. Off all the bulbs in the car, I look at this as the least critical since it’s on for maybe 30 seconds – of which light output is significantly more important that aesthetic considerations.
Rear fog – If you think about driving around with the rear fog on makes you look cool you’re an idiot. If you actually use the rear fog in low-visibility conditions, and want to increase it’s light output for safety reasons, then look at the upgraded halogen bulb reverse bulb which fits in the fog socket as well.

Here’s some pictures of the bulbs for reference, thanks to superbrightleds.com:

194 (L2R: 1 LED, 5LED, 9LED, 15LED):

Full LED conversion thread (S60/V70) | SwedeSpeed

NOTE: 194 = 168 = 5W5. Most LEDs are sold as 194.

NOTE: Some cheaper 194 bulbs have poor socket contacts – many times just a small piece of wire. Over dozens of cars and hundreds of bulbs that I have installed, around 50% of 194 bulbs don’t work the first time they are installed in the socket. If you are sure that the polarity is correct and the socket has power, try bending the leads to make better contact with the holder. Occasionally I’ve used a bit of a paper clip or a copper wire (18 or 16 AWG, solid not stranded) to shim the bulb into making contact. If all else fails (and you’re sure the bulb isn’t defective, you can try adding a blob of solder to the wire lead and flatting it with a pair of pliers.

3710-xWHP3 and 4210-xHP3 (3 LED) SV8.5 Festoon:

3710-xWHP6 and 4210-xHP6 (6 LED) SV8.5 Festoon:

F30-WHP-12V (1 LED) 6×31 SV5.5 Festoon:

NOTE: The SV5.5 has a smaller contact barrel diameter (6mm) than “standard” SV8.5 festoons (8.65mm, 10mm or 11mm body) used in the other lights

If you order everything from superbrightleds.com it comes out to around $150. This is the best option if you just want it to work the first time. Many have saved money on fleeBay but most of the stuff ships directly from Hong Kong or China and can take weeks or months to arrive. I have also found that the cheaper bulbs use smaller resistors to achieve higher output, at the expense of LED life, and can burn out as quickly as a few months (especially in the headlight housing, which reaches high temperatures). The cheap ones also usually have poor color consistency between bulbs. You get what you pay for!

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LED Retrofit Troubleshooting
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Before you post with a problem run down these checklists.

Just installed new LED bulb and it won’t light up:

Check power – it sounds obvious do it anyway. Plug the incandescent bulb back in to make sure the socket is energized. Try to have the car leave the bulb on, for example using the running light switch rather than pushing the city light button on the remote.
Check polarity – Most “economy” and some expensive LED bulbs are polarized, meaning that they will only work if the positive and negative terminals are connected the right way. Some LED bulbs are not marked. Flip bulb around 180 degrees in socket so the contacts are reversed.
Check bulb functionality – Using alligator clips or similar, apply 12V directly (from the battery terminals, or whatever) to the bulb contacts. If you can’t get the bulb to light up, it is probably defective.
Check the bulb contacts. As noted above, some cheaper 194 bulbs have crummy contacts that need some love to make a decent connection. If you do figure out a way to make it work, make sure that it won’t fall out with vibration, heat, etc.
Make sure the circuit is not monitored. Monitored circuits in the S40 include brake, front/rear running, turn, and low beam.
Festoon Bulbs: Check to make sure the contacts are not being shorted by part of the bulb (e.g. a large metal heat sink).

LED bulb has been running for a while, but now won’t light up

Check connection – bulb and socket are subject to vibration and may become loose
Check power – Plug an incandescent bulb back in to make sure the socket is energized. If it does not, make sure the switch is on and the fuse has not blown, etc.
Check bulb functionality – Using alligator clips or similar, apply 12V directly (from the battery terminals, or whatever) to the bulb contacts. If you can’t get the bulb to light up, it is probably defective. This happens pretty often with cheap bulbs in the city lights, since they live next to the high-beams which dump a lot of heat out. Either buy better bulbs or buy a lot of cheaper ones. Also, twice I’ve gone to the dealer and left with a burnt out city light. Don’t know if it’s something they hook the car to or what. Very annoying since they offer to replace it with an incandescent..

LED has dim glow when off