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Rear toe control arm bushing installation tips – V70R | SwedeSpeed

Rear toe control arm bushing installation tips – V70R | SwedeSpeed

Posted on April 21, 2025 By rehan.rafique No Comments on Rear toe control arm bushing installation tips – V70R | SwedeSpeed

Last weekend I swapped out the rear toe control arm bushings on my 2005 R with Powerflex bushings from Viva (#5 in their diagram), and learned a few things that may help anyone else dumb enough to do this at home:

1. This is much easier to do with the entire toe control arm removed, so I recommend disconnecting it at both ends. The passenger side has a 4c wire clipped to it, so make sure you undo the clip.

2. Access to the inner side of the bushing is tough because there are fairly limited access holes in the subframe. Any usable press tool would have to be highly specialized. I can’t image any way to get the factory bushing out without cutting through the metal sleeve. I used a reciprocating saw and cut each sleeve in two places. Given the length of the saw, the blade had to bend a bit to reach the cutting locations. Obviously, don’t let the reciprocating saw eat into the subframe.

Rear toe control arm bushing installation tips – V70R | SwedeSpeed

3. There is a bracket holding a brake line which is secured to the subframe with a 10mm bolt on the top side of the subframe. The bracket is in the way of the bushing, and at least in my case, it was necessary to loosen the bolt to allow the bracket to move a bit.

4. The outside half of the Powerflex bushing is much easier to insert than the inside, and I recommend doing the inside first. I was able to line it up with one hand and use large channel locks to force it in. Don’t forget to lube everything before inserting the inside metal sleeve!

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5. Reconnect the toe control arm to the subframe first. In my case even with the arm disconnected from the knuckle, it took a lot of maneuvering to get the subframe side lined up to insert the bolt all the way through.

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6. Reconnecting the knuckle side of the toe control arm is a challenge because everything is under tension. After some trial and error, what worked for me was to insert a long breaker bar through a a couple of arms connected to the rear of the knuckle, and I used that to force the knuckle to rotate far enough to allow the connecting bolt to be inserted (pic below). I also had a jack under the lower control arm to move the whole assembly up a bit.

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This whole job may be unnecessary for the vast majority of owners. In my case at over 170k miles, I had bad wear (to the cords) on the inside edges of the rear tires even though camber was less than -1 on each side. The old bushings were pretty cracked and had A LOT of play in them. Things feel quite a bit tighter now, especially under hard acceleration.

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