1) Jacked up front end. You’ll need space under the car to get to the lower clamp. You may want to drain coolant first, but I did not.
2) Removed air filter cover / disconnect MAF sensor / and take out first section of fresh air intake hose. See picture. I think 5 or 6 T20 screws for air filter box top, standard screwdriver or 7mm socket for intake hose clamps.
3) Remove the small hose connected at the “L” of part 31338301. There’s a metal clip in the round connector that needs to be pulled out away from the engine (circled red in picture below). Once that clip is pulled out, you can pull this small hose off.
4) While you will notice your new part’s hard plastic connector has a type of plastic “snap ring” that can be opened by pressing on it, the existing connector (the one in OP’s picture) needed to be pushed out with a small screwdriver to release it. Push it back towards the firewall. Once this snap ringed is removed, simply pull off the connector. There is space for shop rags under this connection to help catch and soak up coolant that will spill out.
5) A few inches back (for reference where there are white hash marks on part), there’s a plastic ring clamp holding the hose. Push up on tab on the ring clamp (tab is on engine side of the clamp) to open the clamp. It’s tight, but the hose can be pulled out.
6) Next, go under the car and look up through the window where the cat and exhaust hangers are to see heater hose connections. The clamp you’re looking to disconnect is the one you can see through the heat shield. See pics with it circled in red. Not the ones labeled “UPR” or “LWR.” To get this clamp off I used a flexible hose clamp plier (pictured). I doubt you’d be able to get it off with a regular pliers. Just not enough room. If you don’t have one of these, get one, it makes working with these squeeze type hose clamps a breeze.
7) Once clamp is removed you can remove hose. Be ready with a catch pan for coolant. You may need to use some penetrating oil and/or slice the hose with a straight edge to get the hose to come off easier. Don’t gouge the connector if using a straight edge though. I also reached around through the wheel well to get at the hose. Again, tight, but doable.
8) Final removal step is to release another plastic clamp similar to the one in step 5. This one’s pretty much out of sight, you’ll need to feel for it.
9) Installation is pretty much reverse of removal. I used a dab of silicone lubricant on hose end to help the hose go on the lower connection. That end of the hose has a notch that matches a plastic tab on the connector. Just make sure that’s lined up for proper fit. Set lower clamp, set lower ring clamp, move back up to engine bay, work hose into upper plastic clamp, press quick connector onto port on the side of the engine, giving it a tug to make sure it’s on, then reattach small hose to the port on the “L” section of the hose.
10) Replace coolant – recommend using vacuum filler tool.