When re-installing the battery after replacing my serpentine belt the other day I heard an audible “CLICK!” when manipulating my positive battery terminal wire. I didn’t think much of it until I was driving the following day and my car all of a sudden lost power… Dash lights, engine, ignition, everything!!! I was dead in the water. After poking around I had a flashback to the audible “CLICK!” from the day prior, and then preceded to jostle the positive lead from the battery and my car gained power again! Suspicious but hopeful, I then wedged the positive lead against the battery case to keep it from moving around and drove back home.
I rang the fuse out with an ohmmeter and found that it had continuity, but after bending it ever so slightly, it became an open circuit. After tearing the plastic cover off of it, I found that the eutectic part of the fuse had mechanically separated from the battery side of the terminal (sorry I was in a rush to fix it and forgot to take a picture, I hope you can visualize what I’m saying). It had not melted due to a ground fault or short circuit… Being a Sunday I was desperate to get the car fixed and administered the below for less than $15 and some power tools! I’m happy with it.
View attachment 199895
Just so you don’t think I’m a complete jamoke, I took a caliper to the wire and figured it was 1 AWG MTW. Did a little prodding and found this chart:
View attachment 199896
(Source Website: batterycablesusa)
Here’s a BOM if you want to save yourself $90 + shipping + a few days to get the OEM parts:
-(1x) 8 x 1.25 @12mm long
-(1x) 8 x 1.25 nut
-(1x) 8mm wavy washer
-(1x) 32V 175A fuse (p/n: 0MEG175.XP) – (I only measured 64amps with the AC, lights, and radio on; No need to go with a 200A fuse)
Personally, I’m leaving it as shown. Someone had replaced the other fuse with the OEM repair kit and I don’t like the fact that it requires splicing in the OEM part with a butt-splice; It’s an extra thing that could fail or become an issue later on. Especially when it’s a thing that gives power to the entire car and I have to drive an hour home from work to pick my daughter up from daycare… With this setup, I can rest assured that this (or a similar) fuse is available at any automotive store if, for whatever reason It breaks again…. or worst case, I can easily bypass it temporarily by bolting the cable straight to the battery terminal.
I hope this helps someone!
Cheers,
-Joe