I wanted to share my step by step process of installing the paddle shift retrofit AND being able to keep that glorious illuminated shift knob!
Special thanks goes to member “Pietila” as they took the time to answer a few questions of mine and helped steer me in the right direction for my retrofit method and pioneered the first real guide to the solder method of the original retrofit that I am aware of.
Previous methods required soldering and modification of the SWM circuit board and replacement of the entire shift assembly which meant you would lose the illuminated shift knob if you had a 2013 model Volvo car. This was something I wanted to avoid desperately as I really liked my S60’s illuminated knob and I wasn’t sold on the soldering method as it seemed a little “rough” and not to my liking, so I set out to find my own method that I was happy with.
I’m a Parts Manager for a Volvo Dealer so I was lucky enough to have access to VIDA and every possible wiring diagram that I could need. After many hours of research and building upon pre-existing methods others had figured out with the “solder method” I was able to figure out a plug and play method without soldering or modification of the major components. You will have to connect some wires together which you can do with solder or use bullet connectors like I did for a zero solder method.
The goal for me was to create a simple, straight forward plug and play method as close to factory as possible.
You will require the following items to make this work No software is required at all for this procedure!
1x 2014+ SWM without heated steering wheel but with paddles PT# 31481774
1x 2014+ Wiper Stalk PT# 31456038
1x 2014+ Signal Stalk PT# 31456045
1x 2014+ Up shift paddle (+) PT# 31343008
1x 2014+ Down shift paddle (-) PT# 31343007
1X 2014+ Steering wheel harness PT# 31332540 (This harness connects the steering wheel switches, stalks and paddles to the new SWM)
4x Volvo repair terminals PT# 30656669
1X 2014+ Polestar GSM control unit PT# 32207748 (If you don’t care for the illuminated knob, you can use the GSM module from a 2014+ non Polestar car, however there is no PT# for this unit that I am aware of, so you will have to take it from a used GSM assembly such as a salvaged car at a wrecking yard or used parts vendors and the 2014+ black knob and swap that over too along with the new GSM. No need to swap the entire shift assembly if you’re going to use the 2014+ knob and forgo the 2013 illuminated knob.)
And of course a steering wheel that allows for paddles or modify your existing one to fit the paddles.
If you have a 2010-2011 Volvo, then you need to replace your entire shifter assembly. At that point you’re better off to source the assembly as a used part from a salvaged car or a vendor and THEN just follow the steps for the wiring for the SWM and GSM once you have complete the gear shift assembly swap. Member “p.rico” created a wonderful step by step guide on how to replace that assembly which can be found here:
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt…hifter-Assembly-Retrofit-into-2011-2012-S60-s
All of these parts minus the repair terminals can be sourced from a salvage yard. Also keep in mind, this method had factory “fit and finish” in mind at the trade off of a little more $$$ This method is also the fastest way to add paddles because you don’t have to remove your GSM assembly for a new one, unlike the solder method. Took me about 1 hour to install everything.
If you need instructions on how to remove or install the SWM, SAS (reuse your old one), stalks and steering wheel, then you can reference this thread here thanks to member “BHTeam”:
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt…it-COMPLETE-GUIDE-and-it-works#/topics/606323
Basically what needs to be done is simple, like the other solder procedure, a link needs to be established between the SWM and the GSM. Below is how to create that link and where to plug in the terminals.
DISCLAIMER: Please proceed at your own discretion, I am not liable for any damage that may result when modifying your vehicle!
After adding about 6 feet of wiring to the repair terminals (solder or use bullet connectors to attach wire to repair terminals), you can go ahead and add the wiring to the factory SWM connector housing at the back of the SWM into ports 1 and 5. Then route your 6 ft of wiring however you like, I ended up routing it along the factory harness that’s already present under the steering column and along the side of the center console “waterfall”. Once you’ve routed the wiring to the GSM connector location, plug port “1” wire from the SWM into the empty #4 port in GSM connector housing and then your second SWM wire from port #5 of the SWM into the empty port #5 on the GSM connector. That’s it! It’s wired and you can now start to put everything back together!
NOTE* In order to be able to insert the repair terminal into the connector, you will need to release the locking tab/bar that holds them in the housing of the connector. Pry along the top, back side of the connector to release the locking bar then insert the terminal in the same orientation as the other are installed. Push the repair terminal into the empty ports (#1 and #5) till you hear it “click” into place. Repeat this with the GSM connector. See image below.
To summarize:
SWM #1 wire —–> into GSM #4 port
SWM #5 wire —–> into GSM #5 port
If you want to keep your illuminated knob and have acquired the above mentioned Polestar GSM module, then you will need to replace your old one with the Polestar module at this time. Follow the steps and pictures below.
Step 1: Remove the shifter plunger bracket (not sure what it’s actually called) by pulling the lower tab out and over it should come right out. Please refer to the picture below and refer to the picture in step 2 to see this plunger removed from the assembly.
Step 2: Now carefully unplugging the very fragile ribbon cable pictured below by pulling at the beige clip on both ends just enough that it backs out and the cable becomes free. DON’T PULL THE CLIP ALL THE WAY OUT!!! IT WILL BREAK! Then remove the power cable for the module in the lower left corner. This will just pull right out but don’t pull it out by the wires, use a small tool or pic to back it out.
Step 3: Now time to remove the GSM itself. Pry at the indicated corners in the picture above and the GSM should pop free. Don’t be afraid of wrecking this GSM because you will be replacing it with Polestar version. Install the new Polestar GSM in the same way the old one came out.
Step 4: Plug the ribbon cable back in and then push the beige clip closed then plug the power cable back in and reinstall the plunger bracket that you removed in step 1, MAKE SURE TO LINE THE POSTS BACK UP WITH EACH OTHER AS INDICATED IN THE PICTURE BELOW and now you can plug the GSM connector in and you’re all set!!!! Reassemble the interior and you should have functional paddles! Enjoy!
I hope this helps some of you out and that you found this post informative and helpful. If you have questions, please ask!
Regards,
Edwin S