Facts on the JB4:
- It’s a “piggyback” it does not flash or change any programming in the car
- Piggybacks in general plug in to some sensors and modify signals to change output
- In this car the JB4 plugs in to the “MAP” and “TMAP” sensors (basically boost before and after throttle plate)
- Other piggybacks (i.e. RaceChip) plug to these sensors as well
- The JB4 (and the Heico e.motion) also plugs in to the CAN bus data network.
- CAN bus interface allows monitoring all engine data. Safety and tuning ability are greatly improved
- Personally I would not consider a piggyback option that does not interface with the CAN network.
- Heico is probably a solidly engineered solution but crushingly expensive and limited ongoing development
- JB4 is new to Volvo and probably more development to be done, driven by if people buy these things I am sure.
- Currently they list T5 and T6 compatible, they say 2015-2018 but @Kamil confirmed the newer cars are covered.
So that is what it is, you can find more general info searching around about JB4s they are quite popular on many other models, BMWs and Audis particularly. Install can be a pain, I will put my notes at the bottom about that and stick to the results for now.
I only have a little bit of playing with it currently. Short answer yes I “feel” it. The unit has up to 8 maps total. To interface with the unit, you can buy a data cable (for PC) or a Bluetooth kit. The Bluetooth seems like the only way to go, you can switch maps, take logs, view customizable gauges from all the data being monitored by the JB4, right from your phone. I would consider that mandatory. I have had no quirks or service messages, check engine light or codes so far, which is always a good thing 😉
“Map 1” and “Map 2” seem to be the common starting points. Generally JB4 says Map 1 is “4 psi over stock” for boost, and “Map 2” is 6 psi. Sometimes those are model specific but no statement from them so far specific to Volvo. I am only using Map 1 so far to ease into this. I’ve noted I am seeing boost go from stock 22psi max to 24-25 on that Map 1. I do not know…if Polestar tune increases the max boost over the normal T6, so the idea of “+4psi” is it a target above 22psi or some other max boost without the tune, anyone know? There is a “Map 0” that disables any tuning. Comparing the 0 to 1 map, I can feel an increase in power. It’s too early to quantify that, we will get to that, it’s early on. Note also that if you don’t connect the OBD interface, the JB4 defaults to Map 1, so this level of performance is what Burger is comfortable with, without having any engine data at all. So probably conservative tuning in their sphere of what they do. There are more maps, 3 and up, they are not “more boost” maps but each one has a special purpose, again no specific Volvo statement yet, but you can google general info. The Map 5 “auto-learning” map seems the most interesting of those, as well as the Map 6 user modifiable map for those who want to go off the reservation within what the JB4 can do.
I’m going to reach out to Burger and see what they might like me to do, send them some logs or any other help I can give them. I do also plan to do a comparison of maps using my Racebox performance meter, see if we can quantify what kind of improvements we are talking about 😉
Specific to Volvo on the install: There are not Volvo specific instructions yet, but it was pretty self evident. I got it installed but I am not happy with the mounting, I will probably re-do this in the spring when it’s warmer and I need to possibly modify some things or find a better way. The install is “plug and play” the connectors to tap the MAP and TMAP match the factory plugs, easy peasy and nice quality harness. There are 2 challenges to get over though, the big one being to get to the CAN network, you need to plug to the OBD port in the interior. That means you need to find a way through the firewall into the interior. These premium new cars…that’s not easy! The entire firewall is covered by a thick foam carpet pad. You have the “false firewall” at the back of the engine bay, the real firewall is under the wiper cover plastics. I was not able to remove that wiper cover for now as my gear puller tool to pull the wiper arms seemed to have gone missing. I did find a promising unused grommet up behind the coolant reservoir on the pass side. After much difficulty I did get the OBD wire routed through there after removing the glove box and getting my hand behind the climate unit under the insulation pad. It was NOT fun! But length of the OBD harness is then an issue crossing the dashboard and the OBD plug barely makes it into the engine bay. In the end I got it mounted in a less than ideal place, taped to the front cowl support. I’d like it to be hidden and there is space in the cowl area under the wiper cover. The box is very nice CNC aluminum, bit it’s rather large and bulky to find a place for. I will end up either making an extension harness for the OBD, or I will take a look at another location to run the OBD wire, Vaitrix has instructions for their boost gauge I think, that has you use a grommet low down behind the throttle pedal, I may check that out. At any rate I will deal with this in warmer weather as my fingers and toes were numb in my unheated garage, I just wanted to get the thing working for now 😉 Pictures below that might give you an idea of what this install entails. I’ll update with a pic of the current mounting, apparently I didn’t snap a pic of that.
TMAP sensor, in front of the engine, right side front behind the radiator fan, in the intercooler piping:
MAP sensor, front side of the engine on right side of the intake manifold:
OBD plug in the interior:
