ATVs have come a long way from their underpowered three-wheeled trail machine predecessors. Today’s crop of quad bikes is not only capable on snow, sand and slippery surfaces but is fitted with gutsy gas or diesel engines that muster insane power and torque numbers to get all four wheels whirling. And they’re considerably more manoeuvrable than the dirt bikes they’re based on, and more capable (and comfortable) than full-sized off-roading SUVs, boasting trail chops like the agility and ground clearance of all-round independent suspension and unmatched traction in tyre treads to get you through thick and thin.
However, their dirt bike origins mean they’ll also need frequent maintenance and replacement ATV parts to deliver their best. Regardless of power output or engine displacement, all ATVs and UTVs require scheduled brake pad replacements to ensure safe stopping, regular drive belt changes for optimal power delivery, and if you abuse your quad for maximum riding thrills, periodic axle replacements. These along with air and oil filters, oil changes and new spark plugs are some of the more common quad replacement parts.
Brake Pads
Almost all quads now have round discs, even smaller-engined kids’ bikes. Discs and pads provide the needed stopping power for bigger and heavier machines that are now capable of higher speeds. Brakes though aren’t just about stopping. They provide the necessary control when navigating obstacles, helping with basic manoeuvres such as steering and turning. Those fitted with ABS also aid traction on wet and slippery surfaces. The goal is balancing safety with riding fun. Something older drums found too much to handle.
The tech that has gone into engines, frames and suspension setups has also made its way into brakes, especially in brake pad materials and designs. It’s the friction between discs and pads that slows your ATV to manageable speeds. And not all pads perform equally or cope with demanding riding settings. Pads are subjected to extreme heat when pressing on levers or pedals, but also to external factors like water and dirt that impact braking actuation and power.
If you’re noticing grinding or screeching noises when applying the brakes, longer than usual braking distances, or soft and spongy pedal and lever feel, it’s time to inspect the pads. Worn friction surfaces and pads exposed to the metal backing are nearing their due dates and can get you into trouble. The increased heat and scraping also result in advanced disc wear, meaning replacement parts that cost a few dollars can soon balloon to a repair bill costing hundreds.
The good news for ATV owners is the wide selection of aftermarket pads. Some deliver more performance, while others last longer or are gentler on the discs without the usual drop in braking power. Organic pads are the cheapest choice and possibly were fitted as factory gear. As the name implies, they’re a mixture of organic fibres, glass rubber and composite materials like Kevlar in more costly variants.
Organic pads have a decent brake feel when pulling levers or pressing pedals, decent stopping power and work well even when cold. They’re also the most affordable choice, though have the shortest lifespans and spew considerable amounts of corrosive brake dust on the discs. A good choice if you use your quad in regular everyday riding, considering they’re quiet and won’t eat into the discs.
Move up to sintered pads in bigger and more powerful machines. These consist of various metallic and ceramic powders, brought together under extreme pressure (and temperatures). As such, they can cope with higher friction rates and temperatures during hard braking, have consistently good actuation and brake feel, and tend to last longer than other types. Ideal for racing and extreme applications. However, sintered pads need some warming up, scrape more of the discs, and can get noisy. They’re also a bit more expensive.
Ceramic pads are a newer option, and combine the good parts of organic and sintered types to deliver exceptional braking performance. Made of ceramic and mineral fibres (such as alumina and silica), these braking components have comparable braking power (when warm) to sintered pads, last almost as long, and can get even the biggest and most powerful quads to a complete stop in the shortest braking distance. And they’re also quiet and gentle on the discs. This kind of performance is derived directly from racing applications.
They do have a few downsides though. Like sintered pads, ceramic brake pads do need warming up, and all that performance comes at a higher price.
Drive Belts
Most quads sold today are fitted with Constant Velocity Transmission (CVT). This delivers a good balance between available power and engine loads, with the machines always ready to deliver when you them to. Transferring power from the transmission are drive belts, and connecting the primary and secondary clutch pulleys to turn axles and wheels. The parts go through tremendous amounts of torque, heat pulling and contraction with each rotation, leading to damaged tensile cords that keep the belts together, missing teeth to fit seamlessly in splines, and frayed side walls that ensure the belts stay aligned and work as needed.
Heat is the biggest killer of these ATV parts. They also suffer when using the wrong gear, when clutch pulleys are loose or misaligned and when they’re consistently covered in mud, dirt and other contaminants in typical quad bike territory. Subpar materials and mediocre designs also lead to premature drive belt failure, often manifesting as engine power loss and stalling.
To rule out any performance issues, always have a working spare. Aftermarket replacements are meant for different uses and different machines. Heavy-duty belts consist of improved tooth and cord designs for increased durability and tougher materials to cope with high temperatures and constant stretching and squashing. They’ll have no power transfer issues and will last in everyday riding in most machines averaging less than 100 horsepower.
For racing-spec quads, with higher torque and power, look to extreme-duty belts. These use high-tech and high-strength composites such as Kevlar in the tensile cords and synthetic or natural rubber mixtures in the teeth and sidewalls for reduced wear. Some also have top fabric covers to prevent water and dirt ingress.
When choosing a drive belt, ensure it is rated for the quad bike’s power output, and that it’s in the right length to ensure a clean fit and in the correct tooth count and shape.
Axles
Axles are the parts that spin to move the wheels. Like drive belts, they too are involved in power transfer. However, axles also are multitaskers, supporting the weight of the machine and rider (along with the frame and suspension), connecting to the steering (so are indirectly involved in handling) and providing the clearance for negotiating larger obstacles when paired with appropriately sized wheels. Stock units generally last in everyday riding with tame throttle use, but change your mind, and have some fun on tougher terrain, and they’ll show their limitations.
Most suffer from excessive heat and friction due to lost lubrication from punctured constant velocity boots, or bearing and spline damage, leading to clicking and popping sounds when turning and clunking noises when braking and accelerating. Power loss is another symptom that your axles are failing. Ignore the signs, and you’ll soon be dealing with axle binding, or the shafts snapping straight off the joints.
As with other replacement parts, aftermarket options are sold in tiered lineups meant for different riding styles and different machines. Heavy-duty axles are made of thicker, high-gauge steel shafts, swap thermoplastics for thicker neoprene in the CV boots, with industrial-grade, machined joints, splines and heat-treated bearings ensuring clean power transfer, no play or vibrations and reduced wear. These are meant to last longer than factory axles, with superior heat and impact resistance in everyday trail runs and work duties.
For heavier UTVs, sports-oriented side-by-sides and ATVs primed for racing, choose extreme-duty drive axles. Shafts are made of Chromoly steel for increased tensile strength to prevent metal fatigue from the higher torque and friction these machines produce. These are paired with synthetic or natural rubber boots, CNC machined joints for improved precision, and induction-treated bearings that also reduce rolling resistance. A major difference is the increased angles in the joints for even better wheel articulation over tough terrain, improving handling and ground clearance.
Axles should be changed by pairs to ensure even power through both wheels, but you can also find separate left and right and front and rear units. Lastly, for the best deals, buy ATV parts online from dedicated brands, look for warranties, and ensure all parts are quality-certified.
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