t-plate is the throttle plate. Hot oil pcv vapor gets burnt by passing through the throttle plate into the engine. Hot oil vapors will build up and coat the colder throttle plate. Over time the buildup will restrict air flow at idle. There is not a Schrader valve to test the fuel pressure. You remove the inlet hose going into the fuel rail. Connect a Volvo fuel gauge in line to test fuel pressure. The main pump under the car could be failing. If replacing the main fuel pump, use only Volvo or Bosch brand. I have seen some non-Volvo brand fuel pumps work at idle. Pressing the gas pedal, fuel pressure would drop from 40 psi down to 10 psi and engine shut off. Check all of the fuses below the hood pull handle. Volvo used ceramic aluminum fuses. The aluminum will dry out, crack on the edges and/or center section of the fuse. The fuse does not blow, the crack causes a serious voltage drop. Clean any corrosion where the fuse edge makes contact with the contact ends. If aluminum fuses, replace all with copper type fuse.
On your car, inspect the 25amp fuse, holder, wire ends and small red wire at positive battery post for burnt terminal ends and corrosion. Located just behind the battery area. This is a common issue with age and wear. This will cause a serious voltage drop to the engine running system and fuel pump.
Below is fuses from ipdusa.com
8 amp in pic is aluminum. 16 amp is copper center. 30 pc kit is all copper center.
local AutoParts may have these fuses also.
Plastic hose fuel line coupler between fuel pump and fuel filter can crack during remove/install.
ipdusa sells them if needed.
Make sure that the ignition cap/rotor is Volvo or Bosch, Kock off ones can run like crap.
Crank speed sensor output wire can fail over time due to engine shake. It is located below the back of the head mounted to the top of the engine block. Crank sensor reads the flywheel revolutions. This tells the ignition brain that the engine has RPM’s, make spark and tells the ECM to turn on the fuel pumps.
Normally the engine will crank and no start. It is harder to do on a 240. Reach down in behind the head.
Grab the crank speed wire push, pull move sideways while someone cranks the engine over if it starts and runs better, replace the crank sensor. Or plan on replacing the crank sensor eventually. It is not easy removing/installing the 10mm head bolt holding the sensor in place.
Prancing moose page has lots of 240/740 Volvo info/stuff, great site.
On your car, inspect the 25amp fuse, holder, wire ends and small red wire at positive battery post for burnt terminal ends and corrosion. Located just behind the battery area. This is a common issue with age and wear. This will cause a serious voltage drop to the engine running system and fuel pump.
Below is fuses from ipdusa.com
8 amp in pic is aluminum. 16 amp is copper center. 30 pc kit is all copper center.
local AutoParts may have these fuses also.
Plastic hose fuel line coupler between fuel pump and fuel filter can crack during remove/install.
ipdusa sells them if needed.
Make sure that the ignition cap/rotor is Volvo or Bosch, Kock off ones can run like crap.
Crank speed sensor output wire can fail over time due to engine shake. It is located below the back of the head mounted to the top of the engine block. Crank sensor reads the flywheel revolutions. This tells the ignition brain that the engine has RPM’s, make spark and tells the ECM to turn on the fuel pumps.
Normally the engine will crank and no start. It is harder to do on a 240. Reach down in behind the head.
Grab the crank speed wire push, pull move sideways while someone cranks the engine over if it starts and runs better, replace the crank sensor. Or plan on replacing the crank sensor eventually. It is not easy removing/installing the 10mm head bolt holding the sensor in place.
Prancing moose page has lots of 240/740 Volvo info/stuff, great site.
Prancingmoose.com, Dave’s Volvo Page
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The Volvo Parts, Accessories and Performance Specialists Since 1963
30 Piece Fuse Kit for 240 & 260 (Thermal Plastic) for Volvo – Flosser
